The story behind balti, the Pakistani dish born in Birmingham

In the mid-1970s, in Birmingham, Balti was born. Here in Britain’s second city, where South Asian culinary culture is influenced by the Western palate, the sweet and spicy curry dish has quickly become a permanent fixture on menus. Cooked quickly over a high heat, it’s ideally served in around 10 minutes, and although balti is now known around the world, it’s so adored in the Midlands that there have even been calls to officially give it Traditional Specialty Guaranteed (TSG) status as part of the European Scheme of Protected Food Names. But what exactly is a balti?

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Balti was first introduced to Birmingham around 1975 by a local Pakistani restaurateur in an effort to attract Westerners with a quickly cooked, lightly spiced dish. “He wanted to attract white Brummies and knew they would want quick service and boneless meat, as opposed to the Pakistani custom (of meat on the bone),” says author and local historian Andy Munro. Something of a balti guru, Andy grew up in what became known as the Balti Triangle area of ​​South East Birmingham and estimates he has consumed over 2,000 baltis in his lifetime. This style of recipe, he says, “preserved the idea of ​​’one pot’ cooking that was popular in the mountainous areas of Kashmir.”

To perfect his Pakistani-Kashmiri cooking, the restaurateur had a specially designed wok-style bowl in Birmingham – known today as a balti bowl. It was made of pressed steel that heats up quickly, with a flat bottom for stability on the stove and flat handles that allow easier handling both on the stove and on the table, where it is served directly to the customer. To this day, authentic balti bowls are still made in Birmingham.

How it is manufactured

Balti is a simple dish, but it needs to be cooked quickly over high heat to create a crispy, caramelized burn on the edge of the sauce. It is unique from other types of curries as it is served and eaten from the same balti bowl in which it is cooked. If it is not served like this, it is not an authentic balti.

The amounts of protein and ingredients vary from restaurant to restaurant, but the base of onions, garlic, peppers, tomatoes and chilies never changes. Spices such as cumin, turmeric, fenugreek, garam masala are added, as well as protein (usually chicken), a pinch of salt and fresh coriander for garnish. An authentic balti has a sweet sound and a slight spiciness, and is best mopped up from the bowl with a soft, fresh-from-the-oven naan. This is sometimes known colloquially as the “Birmingham scoop”.

“While curry came from India and Pakistan, balti was born in Birmingham,” says Zaf Hussain, head chef at one of the city’s most iconic balti houses, Shababs. “And while curry is normally more like a stew, balti has a hearty and thicker sauce. Caramelized onions give it a natural sweetness and it’s cooked in vegetable oil, as opposed to ghee – traditionally used in India – which helps it cook faster on high heat.”

The Balti has been much replicated in modern times, with ready frozen meals and even pies, chips and nuts claiming to carry the iconic Birmingham flavour. But the true character of a balti will never be captured in variations like these, according to Andy, because the essence of the dish is based on the fact that it is cooked quickly over a high flame.

Where to eat it

1. Shababs
Birmingham’s Balti Triangle in the southeast Sparkbrook neighborhood was home to about 30 balti houses in their 1990s heyday, but now only a few remain. Shabab is one of them. A mainstay since 1987, this local institution has grown from 22 covers to 122, and its bring-your-own-drink policy helps keep costs affordable for patrons. Along with chicken balti, perennial favorites include lamb tikka and tandoori chicken wings.

2. Shahi Nan Kabab
Just a 10-minute walk from Shababs, Shahi Nan Kabab has been serving balti since 1984 and is highly regarded by those in the know (including Andy Munro). Chef Azhar Mahmood, who has been involved since its inception, earned his stripes cooking for the Pakistan Navy. Before tucking into a balti, try the tender lamb chops, cooked fresh over hot coals, and be sure to leave room for a Birmingham garlic naan for the main event.

3. Royal Watan
There must have been something in the water in Birmingham in 1984, the year another local Balti landmark, Royal Watan, opened. Located in Selly Park, south of the city centre, it offers classic balti alongside original Pakistani dishes, cooked balti style, with meat on the bone rather than the foot. Try the lassawalla gosht, listed on the menu as “grandma’s recipe,” consisting of lamb chops braised in a thick, sweet balti sauce. Accompany it with one of the gloriously generous naans, so large they arrive at the table stiff on a kebab hanger.